Why the HiAce Deserves Its Own Build Guide
Most van conversion guides are written for Ford Transits or Mercedes Sprinters. The Toyota HiAce — the most popular van for conversion in Australia — gets treated as an afterthought. But the HiAce has specific characteristics that make some common conversion advice wrong, and some techniques that work exceptionally well on this platform.
This guide is specifically for the HiAce 200 Series (2005–2019) high-roof long wheelbase — the most common conversion platform in Australia. The measurements, layouts, and techniques below are based on this van.
HiAce Internal Dimensions You Actually Need
Before you buy a single piece of timber or insulation, know your space:
- Internal length (floor to bulkhead): 2,820mm on the LWB
- Internal width at floor: 1,650mm
- Internal width at wheel arches: 1,420mm (the arches intrude significantly)
- Internal height (floor to ceiling centre): 1,840mm on the high-roof
- Rear door opening width: 1,440mm
- Rear door opening height: 1,660mm
The wheel arches are the defining challenge of the HiAce build. They are positioned approximately 900mm from the rear doors and protrude 115mm into the floor space on each side. Every layout decision flows from these arches.
Bed Layout Options for the HiAce
The two practical options are a lengthwise bed or a crosswise bed. Both work — the right choice depends on your height and whether you have a partner.
Lengthwise Bed (Most Popular)
A lengthwise bed running the length of the van gives you 2,820mm of potential sleeping length — more than enough for anyone. The standard approach is to build the bed over the passenger-side wheel arch, with the kitchen on the driver's side. This leaves a walkway between the two.
Bed width over the wheel arch: approximately 700–750mm. Narrow but workable for a solo sleeper. If you need more width, build the bed platform to include storage underneath and raise it above the arch height, giving a consistent sleeping surface width of 900mm.
Pros: Permanent bed setup — no converting. Good walkway access. Works well for solo travellers and couples who don't mind a narrower sleeping surface.
Cons: Relatively narrow for two people. Passenger-side entry requires climbing over the wheel arch if not elevated.
Crosswise Bed (Best for Couples)
A crosswise bed sits perpendicular to the van's length at the rear. On a HiAce, the internal width at the rear (behind the wheel arches) is 1,650mm — just wide enough for a comfortable double if you are both under 185cm tall.
The bed sits entirely behind the wheel arches, leaving the front portion of the van for kitchen and living space. The garage space underneath the crosswise bed (between the arches) is excellent for storing large items.
Pros: Full-width sleeping for couples. Large under-bed storage. Clean separation between sleeping and living areas.
Cons: Requires you both to be under 185cm, or to angle the bed slightly. Loses some front living space.
Insulation: What Works on a HiAce
The HiAce has several insulation challenges that differ from Transit and Sprinter builds:
The Corrugated Metal Walls
HiAce walls have a distinctive corrugated profile with ridges approximately every 200mm. This makes spray foam and rigid board insulation harder to apply properly — you either fill the valleys (wasteful) or try to cut the board to profile (difficult). The best solution for HiAce walls is 3M Thinsulate, which conforms to the corrugated surface without air gaps.
The Cab-Over Design
The HiAce engine sits under the cab, not in a bonnet. This means the cab area generates significant heat that conducts into the living space through the bulkhead. Insulating the bulkhead (the wall between cab and cargo area) is more important in a HiAce than in a Transit. Use 50mm polyiso board on the bulkhead face.
The Roof
The HiAce high-roof has a curved profile. 50mm polyiso foam board can be scored (cut partially through in a grid pattern) to allow it to curve without cracking. Cut scores every 50mm on the non-foil side. Alternatively, Thinsulate conforms naturally to the curve.
Floor Insulation
The HiAce floor is close to the ground and road heat transfer is significant in summer. Use at least 19mm XPS (pink/blue foam board) under your plywood subfloor. The wheel arch tops also need insulation — use offcuts of Thinsulate or foam cut to fit the arch profile.
Electrical Routing on a HiAce
The HiAce has specific advantages and challenges for electrical systems:
Getting Cable from the Cab to the Living Area
The most common approach is running cable through the gap at the top of the bulkhead. There is usually a 20–30mm gap between the top of the bulkhead and the roof structure on the driver's side. Feed your solar cable and DC-DC charger cable through this gap. Use a rubber grommet where cables pass through metal.
Accessing the Starter Battery
The HiAce starter battery is located under the driver's seat (on the cab-over design). Accessing it for DC-DC charger connection requires removing the seat — a 10-minute job with a socket set but worth knowing before you plan your electrical route.
Earthing
The HiAce chassis is an excellent earth point. The most accessible chassis bolt is under the van near the driver's side rear wheel arch. Use a dedicated earth cable of the same gauge as your positive cable — do not use the van's existing wiring as an earth path.
Roof Fan: The Maxxair vs Fan-Tastic Debate
A roof fan is essential for Australian van life. The two most popular options for the HiAce are the Maxxair 00-07500K and the Fan-Tastic Vent 6200. Both fit the standard 355mm x 355mm roof vent cutout.
The Maxxair is slightly quieter at low speeds and handles rain better with its built-in rain cover. The Fan-Tastic has a thermostat option that opens and runs the fan automatically when temperatures reach a set point — useful for passive cooling when you are away from the van.
Cutting the roof of a HiAce requires a jigsaw and some courage. Mark the cut with masking tape, cut from outside, and seal with self-levelling lap sealant (Dicor is the standard) around the flange. Done correctly, this is a permanent, leak-free installation.
The HiAce Solar Panel Situation
The HiAce high-roof has a relatively flat but curved central spine. Two 200W rigid panels will fit side by side on most high-roof HiAce vans, giving you 400W — the sweet spot for full-time van life power.
Mount panels on rails rather than directly to the roof. Rails (Renogy, Yakima, or custom-made) provide an air gap that keeps panels cooler and allows water to run off. Drill through the roof rails (not directly through the roof if avoidable), seal with Dicor, and use stainless steel hardware throughout to avoid corrosion.
Van Rego and Compliance in Australia
A finished HiAce van conversion remains a cargo van for registration purposes — you do not need to change the registration class unless you are fitting rear seat passenger positions. This simplifies compliance significantly.
If you add a diesel heater, no additional compliance is required beyond ensuring it is properly installed and vented externally. If you add LPG (gas cooking), the system must be certified by a licensed gasfitter before use.
Common HiAce Build Mistakes
- Not accounting for the sliding door track: The HiAce has a floor-level track for the sliding door that intrudes into the floor plan by about 40mm. Your floor framework must bridge this track, not sit on it.
- Ignoring the cab heat: Without proper bulkhead insulation, the living area gets uncomfortably hot from the engine bay in summer. This is the most common HiAce-specific oversight.
- Building before measuring the wheel arches precisely: Every HiAce is slightly different depending on year and model. Measure your specific van's arch position and height before cutting anything.
- Underestimating the rear door strength: The HiAce rear doors are lighter than Transit doors and struggle with heavy wall-mounted items. Use the floor and ceiling structure for heavy mounts, not the door panels.
- Not fitting a reversing camera: The HiAce has virtually no rear visibility once the build is complete. A reversing camera is essential, not optional.
Budget Estimate for a Mid-Range HiAce Build
- Insulation (Thinsulate + XPS floor): A$520
- Flooring (XPS subfloor + vinyl): A$280
- Timber framing and panels: A$640
- Bed platform: A$180
- Mattress (short queen): A$200
- Solar (2x 200W Renogy): A$440
- Charge controller (Victron SmartSolar): A$190
- 200Ah lithium battery: A$780
- DC-DC charger (REDARC BCDC): A$380
- Wiring, fuse block, switches: A$280
- Roof fan (Maxxair): A$320
- Kitchen (bench, sink, pump, tank): A$540
- Diesel heater (Chinese): A$260
- Miscellaneous (sealant, screws, connectors): A$280
- Total: approximately A$5,290
This assumes you do all labour yourself. Professional installation of the electrical system adds A$800–1,500 but is recommended for safety.
Ventilation: The Fan You Cannot Skip
Australian summers make a roof fan non-negotiable in any van build, but it is especially important in the HiAce. The tall internal height creates a large volume of warm air that collects at the ceiling. Without active ventilation, a parked HiAce in summer sun can become uninhabitable within 20 minutes.
The Maxxair 00-07500K is the most popular choice for HiAce builds — it fits the standard 355mm x 355mm roof vent opening and has a rain cover that allows it to run during light rain. The Fan-Tastic Vent 6200 is a good alternative with a thermostat option. Install the fan as close to the rear of the cargo area as possible — this pulls air from the front (cab area) to the rear and out, creating a natural air circulation path.
The roof cut dimensions for a HiAce high-roof: 355mm x 355mm opening, centred on the roof spine approximately 600mm forward of the rear doors. Use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth metal blade, mark with masking tape, and cut from the outside. Seal all four corners and the flange perimeter with Dicor self-levelling lap sealant.
Window Coverings: Privacy, Insulation, and Condensation
The HiAce has a distinctive window layout — two large rear windows and (on the high-roof panel van) blank metal on the sides. Most van lifers build or buy reflective window covers for the cab windows (windscreen and front side windows) and rear windows.
The most effective approach uses three layers: a reflective layer facing outward (Reflectix or similar), a fabric layer facing inward, and a magnetic strip or tension mount to hold them in place without adhesives. Commercial options like the Heatshield from Covercraft or custom-cut Reflectix work well.
Condensation management in the HiAce requires particular attention. The large metal surface area of the van body conducts cold air in winter, and the temperature differential between inside and outside creates condensation on walls that have not been properly vapour-managed. Ensuring your insulation is properly installed with no cold bridges — spots where uninsulated metal conducts cold to the interior surface — is the primary prevention. A roof fan running on low overnight with a window cracked provides continuous air exchange that also reduces condensation significantly.
Noise Reduction: Sound Deadening for HiAce
The HiAce is not a quiet van on the road. The cab-over design means engine and road noise are more present than in a bonneted vehicle, and the large flat metal panels of the cargo area act as sounding boards for road and tyre noise.
Sound deadening material (butyl rubber and aluminium foil composite, sold as Dynamat, STP Black, or budget alternatives from car audio suppliers) applied to the floor pan, lower walls, and rear doors makes a measurable difference. You do not need to cover every square centimetre — covering 25–30% of each panel surface at the resonance points achieves 80% of the benefit. Focus on the floor, the lower quarter of the walls, and the rear doors.
Budget approximately A$150–250 for sound deadening material for a full HiAce cargo area. This is one of the highest satisfaction-per-dollar improvements you can make to long-term driving comfort.
Lighting: Practical and Atmosphere
12V LED lighting is now so affordable that there is no reason to scrimp. A well-lit van feels larger and more liveable than a dark one.
A practical HiAce lighting plan:
- Ceiling main lighting: A run of warm white LED strip (2700K) in a channel along the ceiling spine gives even, shadow-free light. Total draw approximately 2–3A.
- Task lighting: A small LED reading light on a gooseneck mount above the bed head, and a focused LED over the kitchen work surface.
- Mood/ambient: A secondary circuit of warm (2200K) LED strip along the lower shelf edge or under-bed reveal creates the warm camp feeling that makes a van feel like home rather than a work truck.
- External: A 12V LED strip under the van chassis or awning illuminates the camp area and makes finding things in the dark dramatically easier.
Wire all lighting on a separate fuse circuit from your other 12V loads. LED lights are sensitive to voltage fluctuations — adding a small capacitor in the circuit eliminates the occasional dimming that occurs when high-draw devices (fridge compressor, fan) start up.
The Build Timeline: What to Expect
A realistic timeline for a solo first-time HiAce builder doing all work on weekends:
- Weeks 1–2: Strip, treat rust, apply sound deadening
- Weeks 3–4: Insulation throughout
- Week 5: Subfloor and floor covering
- Week 6: Roof fan installation, ceiling framework
- Weeks 7–8: Ceiling and wall panels
- Weeks 9–10: Electrical cable runs and rough-in
- Weeks 11–13: Furniture build and installation
- Week 14: Electrical final connection and testing
- Weeks 15–16: Finishing details, window coverings, organisation
Most first-time builders take 4–6 months of weekend work. This is normal. Rushing leads to mistakes that require unbuilding finished work to fix — the most frustrating experience in any van build. Build in enough time to think about each decision before committing to it.
Final Checklist Before Your First Trip
Before leaving on your first trip in a finished HiAce build, work through this checklist systematically:
- All cabinet doors and drawers have locking catches that hold shut on rough roads
- Every electrical connection has been tested and every fuse is correctly rated
- Solar is producing power and charge controller is reading correctly
- Water system holds pressure and pump stops when taps are closed
- Roof fan seals are watertight — spray with a hose and check for drips
- All heavy items (battery, water tank, gas bottle) are secured against forward movement in an emergency stop
- CO and smoke detector fitted and batteries fresh
- Fire extinguisher mounted within reach of driver
- Reversing camera functional
- Spare tyre, jack, and tyre iron accessible without unpacking the build
The first trip reveals the remaining issues. Budget a week of camping close to home before a major trip — close enough to return for tools or parts if needed. Every van lifer has a list of things they fixed after the shakedown trip. It is part of the process.