Toyota HiAce Van Conversion: The Complete Build Guide for Australia

Why the Toyota HiAce is Australia's Favourite Van Life Platform

The Toyota HiAce has been the dominant choice for Australian van lifers for over a decade, and for good reason. The combination of reliability, parts availability, dealer network, and the right internal dimensions for a liveable build makes it hard to beat at any price point.

This guide covers everything you need to know about converting a Toyota HiAce LWB into a full-time liveable van — from insulation to solar, sleeping to kitchen. We'll cover costs, products, and tips specific to the HiAce's unique dimensions and quirks.

Which HiAce Should You Buy?

The LWB (Long Wheel Base) diesel is the non-negotiable starting point for a liveable conversion. The petrol models are underpowered for loaded van life travel, and the SWB simply doesn't have enough internal length for a permanent bed.

Our recommendation: 2015–2019 HiAce LWB diesel. Old enough to be affordable (A$18,000–A$28,000), new enough to have the 2.8L engine, and post the 2014 refresh which added a slightly more comfortable cab. Avoid anything with over 350,000km unless you're mechanically confident.

The 300 Series (2019+) is excellent but expensive on the used market. The fuel costs are meaningfully lower and the ride quality is better, but unless budget isn't a constraint, the older generation is better value for a first build.

HiAce Dimensions — What Actually Fits

Internal measurements for HiAce LWB (diesel, standard roof):

• Internal length: ~4.2m from bulkhead to rear doors
• Internal width: ~1.7m at floor level, narrowing to ~1.55m at shoulder height due to wheel arches
• Internal height: ~1.85m at centre (standing room for most people)

This means a 1.4m × 1.9m mattress fits crossways with room for storage underneath and a narrow kitchen alongside. Many builders opt for a 1.5m wide custom mattress cut to fit — worth it for comfort if you're two people.

Step 1: Insulation — Do This Right or Pay For It Later

Insulation is the single most important part of a van build. Poor insulation means you're hot in summer, freezing in winter, and dealing with condensation year-round. The HiAce's corrugated walls make this trickier than a Transit or Sprinter.

Our recommended approach for the HiAce:

• Walls: 3M Thinsulate (40mm) fills the corrugated gaps better than any rigid foam. It's more expensive but worth every cent in a HiAce.
• Floor: 25mm XPS rigid foam board (Kingspan or similar) under your ply subfloor.
• Ceiling: Combination of Thinsulate in gaps and 25mm polyiso boards on flat sections.
• Wheel arches: Spray foam, then cover with Thinsulate. These are major condensation points.

Budget: A$400–A$900 for materials depending on approach.

Step 2: Flooring

The HiAce floor has multiple recesses and tie-down points that need to be levelled before you can lay a clean subfloor. Fill recesses with 20mm ply cut to fit, then lay 12mm structural ply over the entire floor.

For the finish layer, vinyl plank flooring (LVP) is the best choice for van life — waterproof, durable, easy to clean, and available in attractive timber looks. Bamboo and cork are also popular but require more careful moisture management.

Step 3: Electrical System — The HiAce Specifics

The HiAce starter battery lives under the bonnet (easy access). The main fuse box is under the driver's seat — this is your tap-in point for any 12V accessories.

For a serious build, you'll want:

• DC-DC charger (REDARC BCDC1225D is the Australian standard) to charge your house battery from the alternator while driving
• Solar panels on the roof (200–400W is typical for the HiAce roof)
• LiFePO4 house battery (100Ah minimum, 200Ah for full-time living)
• MPPT solar charge controller (Victron SmartSolar or REDARC)

The HiAce alternator is 100A — more than adequate for charging a 100Ah lithium battery via a DC-DC charger while driving.

Step 4: The Bed Platform

Most HiAce builders go with a fixed crossways bed at the rear. This gives you the most comfortable sleeping arrangement and maximises the feeling of space during the day (you can sit up in the kitchen/living area without the bed dominating).

The standard build is an L-shaped layout: bed across the rear, kitchen/storage along the driver's side, with a clear standing area near the sliding door. This is proven to work well in the HiAce footprint.

Step 5: Kitchen

The HiAce is tight for a kitchen. You'll typically have one run of cabinetry along one wall of about 1.2m. Priority order for most builders:

1. 12V compressor fridge (Engel 40L or similar)
2. 2-burner gas stove (Smev or similar)
3. Small sink with 12V pump
4. Storage bench with cutting board lid

Total Build Cost Guide

Realistic budget ranges for a HiAce LWB conversion:

• Budget build: A$8,000–A$15,000 (DIY, secondhand materials where possible)
• Mid-range build: A$15,000–A$28,000 (quality materials, some professional help)
• Premium build: A$28,000–A$50,000 (professional conversion, premium gear)

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a HiAce be a full-time home?

Absolutely — thousands of Australians live full-time in HiAce conversions. The key is getting the insulation and ventilation right, having adequate solar and battery for your power needs, and accepting that the HiAce is compact by house standards but generous by van standards.

How much does a HiAce conversion cost?

A liveable mid-range HiAce conversion typically costs A$20,000–A$30,000 all-in (van purchase + build), not including ongoing costs. Budget builds start around A$12,000 all-in with a careful choice of secondhand van and DIY everything.

Do I need a roof vent fan in a HiAce?

Yes — this is non-negotiable. A MaxxAir or Maxxair Maxx Air 00-06200K roof vent fan manages condensation, keeps the van comfortable in summer, and makes sleeping bearable above about 22°C. Budget around A$300–A$400 for a quality fan including installation.